Fixing high radon in a Worcester County home
A high result is fixable. The state health department says a mitigation system can usually be installed in less than a day.
How a system works
The common design uses a fan to pull air from beneath the slab and vent it outside above the roofline, before radon can collect indoors. Homes with crawl spaces, several foundation types or more than one floor may need more suction points or fans.
What it typically costs
According to the Massachusetts Department of Public Health, most mitigation systems cost between $1,000 and $1,500. The final price depends on the size of the home, the foundation, crawl spaces, the number of floors, and how many suction points or fans it needs. Some contractors charge for diagnostic tests even when the estimate itself is free.
The state also notes that the cheapest system isn't always the cheapest to own: some cost more to run and maintain.
Hiring someone
The state health department's advice:
- Hire a certified mitigation specialist (NRSB or AARST/NRPP). A system that's designed or installed badly can make the problem worse.
- Have the specialist visit before bidding, and get more than one bid.
- Get a written contract that guarantees bringing radon below 4 pCi/L, and ideally below 2, plus a fan warranty.
- Ask for references, proof of liability insurance, and any licenses your town requires.
The Massachusetts Radon Hotline, (800) 723-6695, can provide a list of certified specialists.
What a finished system should have
From the state's checklist:
- A label reading "Radon Reduction System," so a plumber doesn't tie into it by mistake
- A discharge above the roof edge
- The fan in a ventilated attic or outside the house
- A warning device, such as a pressure gauge, that shows if the fan stops, and an explanation of how to read it
- A label with the installer's name, phone number, certification number and the date of the last test
- Wiring that meets electrical code
Test after it's installed
Massachusetts says to test between 24 hours and 30 days after installation. If it went in during warm weather, test again in winter (November 1 to March 31). After that, retest every year or two.